.People say that when you tweak a design that you will cause yourself much work downstream. I'm here to tell you that that be the truth brotha. The camber that we added seem to be a big deal,, until we tried to fair in the sides to the stem. We pulled out the first and second frame from each end and reshaped them to gradually change from a convex shape to a straight line at the stem. I didn't want any hollows to detract from the original classic Ariki lines. We narrowed up the entry and put some of the gautness back into the fwd sections. Lots of bogging and sanding. At the stern we let the shape roll through from convex to a concave line to include the skeg.
We have added a flange to the bottom of the mold to stiffen the partand allow someplace to bond pull points to dor demolding the part. This will also be where we sealof the mold for vacuum bagging.
We precut the two top pieces of fabric.
We are using polyester resin for this mold and after the fiberglass was apllied we rolled on two coats of thickend resin to fill the weave and give us something besides just glass to sand.
Here is a view showing the camber. Three inches over 80". This camber is good in a composite stucure as it implies a lot of panel stiffness. This allows for the elimination of stringers on the interior hull surface which simplifies building and maintenence. We will now get the longboards out again and sand this surface fair. At that point we will spray the mold with gelcoat and sand it some more.
